I'm new here and tried doing a few searches without much luck on this subject. I have a Jandy RS6 controller in the house that 'locked up' the other day. I hit the reset button on the side and all of the lights came on and stayed on. Made a short jumper to connect the panel out to the main power panel outside, hooked it up that way and played with it for 15 minutes and all functions worked correctly so I assumed bad wiring between the main panel and remote panel. I pulled in new wiring this weekend and hooked everything back up. It worked fine for about and hour, then went unresponsive again.

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If I disconnect the remote panel, give it a some time and reconnect it will sometimes respond to inputs. As it sits right now I had it up and running long enough to program in a filter and cleaner schedule. It then went unresponsive but is still starting and stopping the filter and cleaner according to the schedule. It will occasionally update the time and temperature on the display or sometimes freeze up on the date or give the model and revision 'HH' number of the equipment. Everything works fine in 'Service' mode on the main panel outside. I'm not too familiar with the system, but it seems like some component is heating up or going out on the remote panel.

Is there anything else I can check or individual components I can replace before replacing the entire remote panel? This is the panel in question in case I'm not describing it correctly. I'm about 99% sure the wiring is good. The old stuff I pulled out was fine and I've checked and re-checked the new connections several times. I went home yesterday intending to do an extended test with my short 'jumper' connecton just to eliminate all doubt but the controller had somehow healed itself during the day and everything was working fine so I didn't bother with it. It's still running without an issue.knock wood.

So I guess I'm not sure if it's wiring or some component is on its way out or if it just needed a few power cycles on the panel to clear itself up. Also not sure if it's related but the lock up seemed to happen every time I went to the program menu to schedule the run times. I haven't fooled around with any of those functions again so there may be some gremlin in that part of the circuitry. I'll keep an eye on it for now and see how it goes. Spoke too soon.it's locked up again but is still running the pump and pool/spa mode according to the programmed schedule. Display shows 6521 REV HH and doesn't respond to any key commands. Download Free Aurora Dt6610 Manual more. We do have a spa side remote that has been inoperative since we bought the house a few years ago.

It's not powered up and I've never messed with it. I'm not sure if it's completely disconnected or not, I'll have to check tomorrow in the daylight.

I'm trying to think of anything that happened recently and we did have some good thunderstorms and lightning last week. It doesn't appear that anything got wet in the main control panel, but maybe there was a power surge or blip? I am having the EXACT same problem. The 'All button' controller has '6700 REV C' displayed with all of the LED's on and with no control from the all button unit.

The pump is running as it should with the proper on/off times. The wiring between the all button controller and PCB board is OK, even hooked the all button direct to the PCB with the same problem. Looking at the PCB, I noticed there are two 'chips', one is the processor and the other I am not sure of.

Could these be reseated??? Any help would be appreciate since this has been going on for a couple of weeks. I don't know if the following raises more?' S than it answers, but look up Jandy aqualink part #6908 and see if any of you experiencing this problem with your controllers has it installed.I'll bet you don't. It appears to me that while this part is billed as a 'surge suppressor' and doubles the warranty from 1 to 2 years, what it really does is get rid of RFI and/or common mode currents which can wreak havoc on digital circuits with often bizarre and random effects.

If this is the case, a cheap fix may be to place ferrite beads on both ends of the cable going from the controller to the power center. A good source of ferrite beads is:. HAM radio operators have been using them for years to fix everything from their voice coming out of their neighbors' stereos to stopping garage doors opening and closing as well as home alarms going off. If any of you try these ferrite beads or wrapping the wires around a ferrite core, please post your results and also post if your systems have part #6908 installed.

Thanks, Bill. I have done more reading and believe my earlier post was not correct.

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Is your pool control system unresponsive: doesn’t control pool functions or can’t communicate? Is the remote displaying error code “6700 REV C”? If you answered ‘yes’, then you can be sure the communication circuit in your Jandy/Blue Haven pool control system has failed. The specific failure could be isolated to either the remote (RS4, RS6, or RS8) or the Power Center, or both, or even the wiring between the two. So which part(s) should you box up and send to for repair? Unless you have a spare remote known to be problem-free (read more below the photos), there is no good way to make a home diagnosis of which part is causing the communication breakdown.

Fortunately, at, we have developed a thorough methodology for locating the failure and completely restoring your pool control system. If you are experiencing pool control issues, send in your Remote and Power Center (images below). We will quickly identify and repair the failure, and send back your fully function control system backed by a two-year warranty. Back of Power Center: be sure to send the board and panel in for repair. HOME DIAGNOSIS (If you have a spare remote): This is only applicable if you have another remote and it hasn’t had this communication problem in the past. Swap the spare remote in for the suspect remote.

If the “6700 REV C” code DOES NOT appear, then you can be sure the REMOTE was causing the problem. If the “6700 REV C” code DOES appear, then the problem is at least in either the POWER CENTER or WIRING between the power center or remote, but it is possible that the original remote failed, too – we have seen the Power Center and Remote fail simultaneously. If after going through the following steps, you determine the Power Center is bad, we still highly recommend you send in both the Remote and Power Center.

If you have a Digital Multi Meter (DMM)/Digital Volt Meter (DVM) that can measure electrical resistance, ruling out the wiring is easy. There is a 4-terminal, red plug on both the Power Center and the Remote. The cable that attaches between these plugs is how the Remote and Power Center communicate.

Pick one of these plugs and loosen the two center terminals with a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the two center wires out from the loose terminals and firmly tie the wire ends together. Now go to the other red plug and hold your meter probes to the two center terminals. You should measure an electrical resistance of ten ohms (10 Ω) or less. Any measurement of higher, or infinite/open, resistance means the wiring is corroded, chewed, or not firmly tightened in the plug terminals.

Check the terminals, and if they seem OK, replace the wiring. If the wiring checks out, then you know the communication problem is being caused by the Power Center. That wraps it up!

Never hesitate to with questions. PART/MODEL NUMBERS: 6473-E, 6475, 6685, 6686, 6687, 6688, 6689, 6691, 6700, 672, 6727, 6728, 6729, 673, 6886, 6887, 6888, 6889, 6890, 6891, 7074, BH6100, RS4, RS6, RS8 This entry was posted in,, and tagged,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,. Bookmark the.